At Home Under The Mango Tree

Orissa Burns!!

2008-09-06T22:01:00.011+05:30

These past couple of weeks have been rough for Christians in Orissa. By now some of you have heard about the attacks that have plagued the Indian State since August 23. There are so many facets to this story, like so much of India.

It began on Saturday (August 23) with the killing of a prominent Hindu religious leader, Swami Laxmananda Saraswati, along with 5 of his disciples. The leader was killed during a prayer/meditation service in an ashram located in the Kandhamal District of Orissa.

Below: One of 70 Churches destoyed in Dec 2007
Kandhamal!! Sound familiar? Perhaps not. This is the same place that experienced similar riots last Christmas which drove thousands of Christians into the forest for weeks, leaving their homes and assets to be destroyed by politically surged Hindu mobs. The Swami was one of the outspoken voices that instigated the December riots and has been attempting to use the year 2008 to reclaim Orissa as a pure Hindu state. He was especially known for speaking out against the conversion of tribal communities being propagated by many Christian groups. The clincher is that the Swami was not killed by a Christian group. The band that claimed responsibility for his death was a militant, social justice movement known as the Naxalites.

Who are the Naxalites? They are a Maoist guerrilla movement of sorts that lurks in the interior regions of India. Christians in Kandhamal may have joined the Naxalites after the government failed to hold accountable those responsible for the December riots, but the leadership supposedly remains in the hands of Brahmin Hindus. Regardless, the Naxalites proudly took credit for killing the Swami in retaliation for the violence last Christmas. This, however, did not stop the militant wing of the Hindu Nationalist Party (the BJP), from turning around and blaming Christians…hence the attacks!

The attacks started immediately. On Sunday evening the largest Christian institution in Kandhamal was gutted and burned. Its leader remains on the BJP hit list for all the work he has done to develop Dalit communities (a.k.a. “untouchables”). A number of other NGOs in the area were destroyed as well. Many of them were secular or Hindu but were condemned for collaborating with Christian institutions. On Monday a number of other religious institutions were attacked including the house of the Archbishop. The Archbishop is safe, a fate not equal to that of many priests, sisters and churches throughout Orissa. Even Mother Teresa’s Daughters of Charity faced attacks. Some people were assaulted by iron bars or burned alive. Hindus standing alongside Christians experienced the mob’s brunt as well, attacked by other Hindus. Buildings were razed to the ground and vehicles destroyed.

After Monday, calm returned to other parts of Orissa, focusing more on Kandhamal once again. The mob targeted Christian institutions and houses, forcing conversion back to Hinduism at the threat of losing their homes. Two of our staff members lost their homes with their families running to the forests for refuge. Hindus offering safe haven to Christians, faced the same fate. Some mobs did not stop at homes but this time turned towards humans, leaving over 40 dead. The attacks went on for over 48 hours before the government sent troops. Kandhamal burnt for days!

Tens of thousands newly homeless continue to fight for their lives. Many fear to come out of the forest, not knowing what awaits them. Camps are already overrun with as many as 15,000 people. I performed an assessment of the camps and torched villages following December’s attacks. Today, 8 months later, not one shelter has been reconstructed due to the inadequate initiatives by the government relief mechanisms. Victims suffer under heavy monsoon rains and lack of food, shelter or clothing.
Right: Example of home for girls burned in Dec

Contempt runs deep, and many Christians feel their Church has abandoned them. A number came to Christianity due to economic incentives provided by Christian missionary groups. The majority, however, found solace in a religion that viewed them as equals when the District’s Hindu majority sought to keep them in their caste-based roles. Most chose not to return to Hinduism for that reason. For that they lost their homes.

The government responded with some relief to the newly displaced people. Handouts of clothing and cooking vessels went out to about 3,500 people, probably less than a tenth of those affected. Families have access to a handful of rice and some amenities each day. Many are in desperate need of medical care but no longer trust the local Hindu-run clinics. People lack sufficient drinking water and sanitation units. The government has promised $250 compensation to families who lost their homes, much of which they will need just to survive in the camps. Meanwhile, they will continue to face threats and discrimination by their fundamentalist neighbours.
Left: Burned houses from last Dec

For a country that prides itself on secularism, Orissa stands as an example that the caste system remains very much alive in some parts of India. Poor tribal communities suffer manipulation by corrupt politicians bent on rallying the uneducated masses around a cry of hate. These rallies coupled with the local version of Everclear just about sums up BJP grassroots politics. Many who participated in the riots have no idea why they were there, only that they were promised money or booze. Pure Hinduism is not to blame, just the fundamentalist wings trying to woo their nationalistic electorate. Meanwhile, the poor suffer.

I cannot say what lies in store for the people of Kandhamal. The organization I work for will provide whatever relief we can starting on September 10th when the government opens up access. Re-constructing peace, however, will take much more time. This will not happen if the government does not protect the victims and hold those responsible accountable. It is events like this that paint a poor portrait of India, but at the same time cannot be ignored if the country is to evolve.

Tsunami Efforts

2008-01-21T01:11:00.000+05:30

I promised last time that I would speak a little about the areas affected by the tsunami of 2004, so here it is. In November, some of my colleagues and I went to inspect one of the housing colonies we helped construct. Our travels brought us to Nagappattinam, the worst affected area on the Indian mainland. I listened intently to our guide, one of our local partners, who recalled the events of the day – children running to the bridge upon learning about a large tidal wave that would later wash out the bridge and the children along with it; 10 ton cement slabs carried off as if they weighed no more than skipping stones; fishermen’s possessions and livelihoods lost as their homes and boats that rested on the beach vanished within minutes. We drove along the coast, and an eerie sensation passed over me while looking at the water. It appeared so peaceful and calm, incapable of causing the devastation that took place three years ago. For months those fishermen who could recover their boats dared not enter the water. Others who lost their homes and families needed to start from scratch. Where and how to begin was the question?

Fortunately, help arrived. The international community poured out more money than could be spent within 12 months, hence we were looking at projects almost three years later. Additionally, the Indian government responded quickly to place people in temporary shelters. It then provided people the option of repairing their existing homes or moving into newly constructed homes farther inland. The catch was that if they stayed along the coast they would receive no further assistance should another disaster hit. Many people chose to move in land while others felt compelled to remain in the renovated temporary shelters in order to preserve their livelihood. What could they do inland when their income depended on easy access to the sea? I toured the thousands of repaired shelters, constructed sanitation systems, installed eco-friendly toilets and community structures that testified to the resilience of the people in this area.

Photo 1: New Shelters

Photo 2: Community women learning a new
trade as seamstresses

The other interesting part of this trip was that we were accompanied by a gentleman named Tom from New Orleans representing a US-based domestic relief organization. He quickly pointed out the discrepancies between the situation in Nagappattinam post-tsunami and New Orleans post-Katrina. I reflected on some of what my sister mentioned from her experiences this past summer in New Orleans where some houses still festered with the same water from two years back. Tom recounted stories of people leaving New Orleans with the feeling that the government was not doing what it needed to in order to facilitate reconstruction. It would be easy to draw parallels that may not be entirely fair.

Suffice it to say that those who lived through the tsunami have chosen more than just survival. The new communities have developed new infrastructure and mechanisms to work through problems they were incapable of addressing pre-tsunami. Violence and trafficking against women has stepped into the limelight. Gross corruption that rested under the surface of community life is now being tackled. Individuals have learned new skills and communities are making tangible commitments to care for their neighbors in ways that could not be observed before. Too bad so many people had to die in order for some of these lessons to set in. But maybe there is something we can take away from this as Americans as well.

Belated Christmas and 2008 Greetings

2008-01-10T07:59:00.000+05:30

Christmas and New Year’s have gone by. I know I promised to write about tsunami projects, but I think I at least own an update on the holiday season. Expect tsunami next entry…I promise!

The girl who I hire to cook for me was down with the chicken pocks today, so I went out to eat dinner. On the walk home I pinched myself to make sure I am not dreaming and that I am still in India. This Christmas reminded me of what I love about India, and why I feel so blessed to be here for the short time that I can.

I spent this Christmas with my mom’s family outside of Calicut in the State of Kerala. You may recall seeing some photos from my first entry, but this time the whole clan was in town. Since my last trip, I have improved some in my mother tongue, at least enough to take me from the airport to a cousin's house. From there I met up with other cousins and their children.

They came out of the woodwork as I bounced from house to house spending time with 10 first cousins and their families. The communication and culture gaps were obvious. Regardless, they still treated me like their long-lost, little brother. Over the course of four days I bathed in pristine, rivers that wound their way from green mountains down through the jungles of my home state. I rode on the back of motorcycles and helped collect rubber milk from rubber trees with my family. On Christmas Eve we pulled together a nativity scene from palm leaves and sticks under the dim light of oil lamps because the electricity had pretty much flickered out for the night. (Well, I should say my cousins, nephews and nieces pulled together the set. I just held the oil lamp since I couldn’t understand much of what was being said). A few of us walked to midnight mass under the glow of a full moon. I couldn’t understand the mass, so I used it for two hours of personal prayer time instead. Some of you have heard me say this before, but I love spending Christmas in the developing part of this world which is one of the reasons why I usually spend it at the Finca in Honduras. Part of me certainly missed my parents and siblings who all celebrated together New York-style; and it would have been nice to hear Bing Crosby sing White Christmas on the radio or watch Chevy Chase’s great-aunt recite the national anthem for the Christmas blessing on TV (National Lampoons reference for those who didn’t get it). This Christmas, though, I was truly reminded of one of the reasons why I love being Catholic. What a great environment to remember the humility of how the Christ child entered this world, being totally poor in spirit. It served as a good opportunity to realize just how much I have to learn. Fortunately, in India I have some really good teachers.

Otherwise, on the work front I have been heavily involved in HIV and counter-trafficking programs. The work keeps me very busy, but the opportunity for learning seems unending. A big bonus was the chance to travel to the north for a training on counter-trafficking strategies. I had the chance to stop by and see the Taj Mahal while there...impressive in its history, sheer size and attention to detail. Here are some photos.

A belated Merry Christmas and Happy 2008 to you all!

Photo 1: My co-worker (Francina) in front of the Taj Mahal
Photo 2: The Taj's lawnmower
Photo 3: Me with the remnants of the Orcha palace in the background

First visit to the camps

2007-11-16T22:05:00.000+05:30

Well, enough about me (I know the, novelty wears off fast)...I'm sure most of you would like to hear more about the work. The past two months have been filled with exposure to so many different themes I can hardly keep up. This week alone I raced to pull together documents on HIV/AIDS support, flood relief and livelihood development projects. My adventures have taken me to destinations even my parents never saw growing up in India.

On my first trip we visited two Sri Lankan refugee camps to witness the inauguration of some toilet units we helped construct. Toilets you say...?? Yes...toilets! A small thing to most, but if you are a refugee who has survived a relentless civil war and unforgiving seas to ensure your survival and that of your family you don't ask your hosts if they have adequate bathrooms when they escort you to their crude, makeshift camps. They come by thousands every year - victims of war who hope to return to their native Sri Lanka some day.

The camps offer little. Most of the families exist in 10'x10' shelters. A tyical shelter comes outfitted with mud floors, broken doors and walls scraped together from rotting wood. Usually the roofs made of tin or tatch have huge breaks or holes, providing little defense against the elements. In the beginning most people waited hours to collect drinking water from an outside spout. Even then, fecal counts could be so high in the water that many people contracted common water-borne diseases like hepatitis or dysenntery. This means that people need to boil water, but...you guessed it...a 10'x10' space leaves little room for sleeping, eating, building a fire and proper ventilation. Space for privacy, even to change clothes is a luxury not afforded to many refugees. Some have been in the camps for over 10 years and others as much as 30 years. The lack of proper sanitation facilities creates especially dangerous conditions with open sewage pits and the threat of women and chilren falling victim to violence when going to the bathroom. One visit and our country director was sold that we needed to help. (Pic 1: Refugee girls with sample houses in the back)

Over the past couple of years the situation within the camps has improved dramatically which I took in during my visit. We and other local NGOs have worked well with the communities and government to install new wells, water spouts and toilets in about 80 of the almost 120 camps. Significant improvements have also been made to many of the shelters. On the day of the toilet inauguration the refugee communities received their new toilet blocks and water units with overwhelming gratitude. Many of the refugees actually performed the construction, learning a new trade along the way. Still, much remains to be done within these camps, much less the ones that have received no help at all. (Pic 2: Camp residents enjoying the festivities of the toilet inauguration)

OK...before signing off, I want to plant a seed for the next blog. Last month I visited Nagaputtnam, the area in India worst hit by the tsunami of 2004. There is much to tell around that, but one thing worth noting is that immediate needs were addressed there better than in New Orleans post-Katrina.

Happy Thanksgiving to all of you!!

2007-10-21T16:28:00.000+05:30

I talked so long about starting a blog, I figured it was about time I actually did it. So with bated breathe I present the first installment of a blog which will account most of my current and hopefully future adventures.

I moved to Chennai, India on Sept. 17th. The part of Chennai that I live in is polluted, noisy and crowded, but I will call it home for the next one year of my life. On the plus side, it beats Washington DC in terms of safety.

After spending less than one week in a hotel I moved into my new flat. It is a spacious 2-bedroom, 2-bathroom flat situated in Anna Nagar, less than 60 seconds from my office by foot. My first night in the new flat I fended off an invasion of mosquitoes and infant-sized cockroaches...like something out of a Kafka novel. I used so much roach spray that I nearly asphyxiated before the roaches did...resilient little buggers!! But note that I do have an extra bedroom for anyone who might be interested in visiting, however unlikely given the picture I just finished painting. Rest assured that after some work the flat has definitely started to feel like home.

All that said, I love India and feel truly blessed to have this time to work here. During my second week I visited my first Sri Lankan refugee camp in Tamil Nadu, a state located along the south east coast of India. I will be helping to improve the overall shelter and sanitation situation within the camps as well as addressing protection issues around women and children in southern India. Additionally, I will be helping to develop Agribusiness opportunities throughout the region, which falls more in line with the whole MBA thing I just finished this past May. My weeks are spent working with truly exceptional people, and I devote weekends to catching up with long-lost family throughout India. For the past three weekends I have become re- acquainted with my mom's family in the south after ten years, my father's family in Mumbai, and another cousin in New Delhi. Too cool to say the least!

Me with some of the family in Kerala

If you have any comments on the blog, do tell! I am open to all suggestions.